Rio Climbing Guides

Our goal is to provide a service that includes the identification of our client's background in his/her climbing to then indicate an appropriate route, which should be something hard enough so it's not boring. We beleive there's more learning, reward and safety when these considerations are made. One other important aspect we also consider, which surely corroborates for a rewarding experience, is to climb in the shade. Most rockfaces, depending on the season, are on the shade either in the morning or in the afternoon. Note that during the summer months (December-March) some climbing routes may not be available due to the lack of shade which may cause extreme heat on the desired faces.

For better understanding regarding the climbing options available in Rio we've selected the routes we indicate the most; the classics. They are in the formats* of half-day -3-4 hours- or full-day -7-10 hours- for routes within the city, and remote-full-day -10-12hour- for the routes located om the mountains outside of Rio. You may request information concerning other classic routes not listed here at any time at guides@rioclimbingguides.com.

*Note that time frames include the approach and descent.

The Italians route on Sugar Loaf


	3-4 hours*	5.10

*4-6 hours when summiting

This route follows the west arete of the Sugar Loaf mountain. A monolithic dome imersed between Guanabara bay and the Atlantic Ocean, it guarantees an outstanding panorama of the wonderfull city. The route provides about 350 feet, done in three pitches of face climbing on small holds and crimpers at a sustained 5.9. Has a couple 5.10 technical cruxes all the way to the ending cave from which it is possible to top out by taking a via ferrata (cables), for 400 feet, or four more pitches of 5.7 face climbing linking the end of another route.

Shade is on this face in the morning until around 10 pm Approach takes about 25-35 minutes.
The descent can be done by the cable car at no additional charge until the Morro da Urca mountain, from where a 15-25 minutes down hike leads to the ground.

Corcovado愀 K-2 route


	3-4 hours	5.9

A complete route that includes all types of techniques ranging from liebacks, foot jams, smearing and crimpers. The K-2 route is rated 5.9, has about 450 feet long, and is usually done in 5 small pitches due to its zig-zags. This face is on the shade in the afternoon or all day long during the local winter (april-september). It's known for it's high exposure. Starting at 800 feet from the mountain's base it guarantees an expectacular view of Rio on clear days. It's Rio's top Three of its grade. The approach takes about 30-40 minutes.
The descent is made through the road that takes the regular tourists to the top of the mountain, that is the postcard of Rio, and takes about 30-40 minutes.

The Gavea's Needle


	3-4 hours	5.4愀 -5.11愀

A needle shaped rock set in the middle of the forest, this mountain has classic routes for all tastes ranging from 5.4s to a 5.11. Most routes are three to 5 pitches long of face and crack climbing leading to a small summit from where the decent can be done by a hike down of about 15-20 minutes until Rio's Hangliding ramp where a double flight can be scheduled with credentiated instructors.
The aproaches vary from 15-25 minutes and, due to the conic shape of the mountain there is always something in the shade, either in the morning or in the afternoon.

The Eyes Traverse


	6-9 hours	5.7C(5.11b)

The most beautiful route of its grade, perhaps in the country, is located on the mithycal monolith of Pedra da Gavea. A sphinx shaped mountain full of legends about phoenicians who sculpted their emperor's face, Badesy, with an animal body. What they would not imagine was that Badesy's eyes would become an outstanding route for climbers. Going at the grade of 5.7 the participant must be used to climbing traverses since the climb has 60% of its 550 feet length in horizontal, and must also have a strong psychological skill because it's a traverse climb located in the midle of a giant overhang with a very impressive view of the drop.
The last two pitches starting from the right eye's cosy alcove is a via ferrata (cable) that ends on Badesy's right ear from where the summit can be reached in 20-30 minutes and the decent in 1-2 hours. It's in the shade all day during the summer and the approach hike takes around 1-2 hours.

Cantagalo rock


	3-4 hours	5.6愀-5.11愀

Cantagalo is a crag with a bunch of two-to-three pitch routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 mostly on small crimpy holds and near vertical terrain. Its almost inexistent approach and the proximity from the neighborhoods of Ipanema, Copacabana and Lagoa makes it possible to do more than one route on the half day program. Most of the routes there are on the shade in the morning (6-10) during the summer.

The Capacete of Salinas, the CERJ route
(camping/ one and half day)


	5-8 hours	5.8+A0(5.10)

The CERJ route is a long traditional route that can be rated at 5.8+A0(5.10). It's a complete route that provides both crack and face climbing techniques on its aproximately 1000 ft extension. For climbing this or other routes in the region of Salinas we usually leave Rio at 2 o惡lock pm the day before, camp next to the base and climb the route's 9 pitches early the next day. It normally takes participants 5-8 hours to complete this route.

The God's Finger (remote)


	10-13 hours	5.6 -5.10

Carved in the middle of Serra dos Orgaos Mountain Range outside of Rio, this mountain is the one that best simbolizes the Brazilian climbing having its first ascent done in the year of 1912 by a group of local adventurers who had little experience in rock climbing and a lot of courage.

Nowadays the mountain is a must do in every guide's curriculum with a unique beauty resembeling the lord's indicator finger pointing to the sky with its majesty. The approach is very energy draining and should take about 50-90 minutes to any route and includes some via ferrata passages and steep 3rd class terrain.

Most of the routes available at God's finger are made through classic chimneys ranging from 5.6-5.10 and the most accessible summiting routes folow chimney systems on the east side of the needle at the grade of 5.8, but there are other options for harder but equally beautiful lines. The descent is done by a loooong rappel.